Early Bird Avoids the Mobs at Logan Square
Fun among the masses, plus an easier-going scene at 61st St. Market
Local Food Lives Large at Logan Square Market
If you are one of us who have been pleading with people for years to support local farmers, it only takes one visit to Chicago’s Logan Square Farmers Market to recognize that the idea is really catching on.
Like Green City Market in Lincoln Park, Logan Square Farmers Market has been drawing record crowds since our society emerged from the dark days of the pandemic. And because the walkways between the rows of tents are much narrower than on Green City’s spacious footprint, you can get caught in some slow-moving human traffic jams.
It brings to mind one of the quotes attributed to baseball great and malaprop master Yogi Berra: “Nobody goes there anymore, it’s too crowded.” Is the explosion of interest too much of a good thing? If you have a strong aversion to big crowds, this might not be the market for you.
But it is surely great for the vendors, many of whom had long lines of shoppers waiting to be served. And if you’re looking for a street festival vibe, it would be very hard to beat the Logan Square market.
So, two words: Shop early! The photo immediately above was taken just around opening time at 9 a.m.
It was especially gratifying to visit with Geneva Lakes Produce Farm (Burlington, Wisconsin), which was there with its tables full of produce, some of it massively sized. Geneva Lakes is the farm that suffered a devastating fire in early April — just as the team was preparing for spring planting — which destroyed three buildings containing much of its equipment. Local Food Forum published their story on April 2 with a link to their GoFundMe donations page.
With community support, Geneva Lakes appears to be in right with the season. And their rebuilding efforts will benefit from your patronage, whether at farmers markets or through their CSA.
The farming village of Eau Claire, Michigan was well represented by Piedt Farms, notable for its colorful profusion of hothouse tomatoes, and Los Rodriguez Farm, which is turning up in markets all around the area.
I’ve seen Bennett Farms (Edwardsburg, Michigan) at a few local markets recently and have been anxious to check out their pastured-raised meats. My visit Sunday was clinched when I saw the sign at the right: Homegrown by Heroes is a marketing designation for farms owned by military veterans.
Gotta give credit for boldness to the folks at Fook Hing Hot Chili Oil (say the name out loud).
The market haul from lower left: tofu salads from Phoenix Bean Tofu; a pork steak, ground pork and bacon from Bennett Farms; zucchini and tomatoes from Piedt Farms; and kale, one of those giant heads of lettuce, and ramps (surprised to see them this late) from Geneva Lakes Produce.
Busy but Calmer at 61 St. Farmers Market
61st St. Farmers Market, on the other hand, is busy but not a human crush. Saturday also was a lovely day and shoppers strolled under the bowers of trees and leisurely visited the tents and tables that wrap around the building that is home to The Experimental Station, the non-profit that runs the market.
The 61st Street Market is located at 6100 S. Blackstone St. at the border of the Hyde Park neighborhood (home to University of Chicago) to the north and the mostly Black community of Woodlawn in which the market is physically located.
While the demographics of the attendees visually appeared to lean to the college crowd, there can be no doubt about the market’s dedication to food access and equity. Along with the market, The Experimental Station runs Link Up Illinois, a program that helps finance the Link Match programs that enable many of our region’s farmers markets to double the value of local food assistance benefits for Link recipients (Link is the state’s version of the federal Supplemental Nutritiion Assistance Program, or SNAP.)
The 61st Street Market, unsurprisingly, accepts both Link benefits and participates in the Link Match program.
Thanks to the fact that Barb accompanied me on this field trip, there are actually a couple of photos of me to share.
This is me striking my Asparagus Power pose at the stand of Mick Klug Farm (St. Joseph, Michigan), one of the longstanding participants in the 61st St. Market.
Here’s me with good friend Kim Snyder of Faith’s Farm (Bonfield, Illinois). For most of the past two decades, Kim was one of the region’s wave of pasture-raised livestock producers. She has scaled back in recent years and is currently seeking a buyer for her farm, even as she continues to produce a number of personal and household products made with all-natural ingredients.
The market itself is definitely worth visiting, with the side benefit that you can segue to one of the area’s outstanding restaurants.
I had the honor of attending last year’s James Beard Foundation Awards and watched as Erick Williams, chef-owner of Virtue Restaurant and Bar located in the busy 53rd St. commercial area at the north edge of the U of C campus. Erick, a major figure in promoting both Southern and Black food heritage, also owns Daisy’s Po-Boy and Tavern, a New Orleans-style eatery with a lively vibe that is at 5125 S. Harper Ave., just up the block from Virtue.
We have long been fans of Cajun food, so we headed to Daisy’s after our market swing. Barb enjoyed the oyster po-boy (top photo), while I scarfed down the exquisite catfish po-boy. We also shared a piece of their over-the-top rich and flavorful banana pecan bourbon toffee cake. The staff was very friendly and welcoming.
Our haul for this outing (from lower left) included another slice of that cake and a to-go order of seafood gumbo from Daisy’s; green and purple asparagus and apples from Mick Klug Farm; eggs from Faith’s Farm; green onions from Lane’s End Farm (Lowell, Indiana); and (be still my heart) bialys and a potato knish from Zeitlin’s Delicatessen (Chicago).
This Week’s Regional Farmers Market Schedule
Have we gotten your appetite up for delicious food, produced locally and sustainably? Hope so, because here’s the weekly Chicago region farmers market schedule, with seven new openings this week.