Day on the Farm with Organic Grain Pioneer
A recap of my visit to Harold Wilken's Janie's Farm and Janie's Mill in central Illinois.
Amber Waves of Sustainable Grain
The rise of good grain — produced using sustainable practices — is one of the biggest developments I’ve witnessed since I became a full-time local food advocate. The results have been better, tastier flours, and artisan breads that have proliferated after decades of bland white loaves with little nutritional value.
That’s why organic grain pioneer Harold Wilken of Janie’s Farm in Danforth, Illinois and Janie’s Mill in nearby Ashkum is both a longtime friend and rather a hero to me.
Harold began farming with the conventional practices on the farm on which he was raised, but the use of agricultural chemicals became an increasing concern (he suffered health issues after he was accidentally sprayed with pesticide in 1990). He was a rare bird when he began to transition his farm to organic in 2005. In the years since, Harold has played a key role in the good grain movement, as an exemplar, an advocate, and a recruiter persuading other farmers to go organic.
He is also one of the nicest people I know.
I had only been to Harold’s farm once, for a 2015 organic grain presentation held in the big shed; it was pouring rain and we never got to see the fields. I’d also been to Janie’s Mill not long after it opened in 2017 with colleagues from FamilyFarmed, but a side trip to the farm nearby wasn’t on the agenda.
So when I learned that Marbleseed — the organic farming non-profit formerly known as MOSES (Midwest Organic and Sustainable Education Service) — had scheduled a field day at Janie’s Farm and Janie’s Mill for Friday, August 4, I signed up immediately.
It was no surprise that Marbleseed chose this location, as it had awarded Harold Wilken and his son/farming partner Ross as its Farmers of the Year at its annual conference held last February in LaCrosse, Wisconsin.
The weather this time was sunny (and very hot), and the drive down I-57 from Chicago was stress-free. The event started in that same big shed with a program about organic grain featuring leaders of several advocacy and education groups. They included:
Tom Manley, program director at Marbleseed
Erin Silva, head of the University of Wisconsin’s OGRAIN organic grain project and an associate professor and state extension specialist in organic agricultural system.
Nick Frillman, educator on local food systems and small farms for University of Illinois Extension.
Alyssa Hartman, executive director at Artisan Grain Collaborative.
Erin Meyer, executive director of Basil’s Harvest, a non-profit that engages the power of regional regenerative food systems to promote human and planetary wellbeing by connecting farmers, institutions, health systems and businesses to build just and regenerative supply chains.
Dr. Jessica Rutkowski, who gave a wheat breeding update and discussed her work in small grains improvement at the University of Illinois.
These presentations were followed by a panel of young organic grain farmers, led by Ross Wilken.
Following lunch of sandwiches that included delicious bread from Hewn Bakery, attendees climbed aboard two flatbeds decked with hay bales for a slow drive around the expansive farm.
The heat was a bit challenging but it was worth it to see the Wilkens’ crops in the field for the first time, including the corn in the top photo and…
… soybeans, here being treated with a Weed Zapper (which kills weeds with high-voltage electricity), while Ross Wilken looks on.
After refreshing with cold drinks back at the shed, attendees drove themselves to Janie’s Mill, three miles north in the town of Ashkum. There, the group was addressed by Harold and by Jill Brockman-Cummings, the manager and head miller.
The attendees split into four groups, with Jill explaining the workings of the mills…
… while Harold gave tours of the grain cold storage room (with its speciality mills) and wife Sandy Wilken detailed how the flours are packaged for delivery to commercial buyers and e-commerce customers. On the way out, attendees had the opportunity to purchase Janie’s Mill products (I came home with bags of rye flakes and grits made from Bloody Butcher corn, so named because of its bright red kernels).
The farm and mill are named for Janie Wilken, Harold’s and Sandy’s daughter, who died at age 15 in a 2001 auto accident. Harold has often said that he believes Janie is looking over the family to ensure the success of their organic grain enterprises. If that is the case, she is doing an excellent job.